Imlay Slyther 8.1 Tech Rope
Imlay Slyther 8.1 Tech Rope
Our new Slyther is a high-tech rope that is both durable, light, and slinky / smooth; and extracts the maximum possible cash from your wallet… (almost, there are more expensive ropes). 75% Technora Sheath (+25% polyester), Dyneema core. It is very light, 41.71 grams per meter, though not quite the lightest real rope available. Please read the hangtag, image #2.
Initially only available by direct sales, and only in 120’, 200’ and 300’ lengths - and full spools. There might be Odd Cuts from time to time. I added a 15’ length if people want to have it in hand before buying (limit, 1 x 15’ piece per customer). We can TRY to do something else if you ask for it.
(The actual rope lengths are 126, 210, and 315' to allow for 5% shrinkage. NOTE: Odd Cuts are the actual length…)
I highly suggest doing 3 wet/dry cycles before using the rope if you can. It improves the hand of the rope to a small degree. In my test of this, the rope shrank by 4% with the 3 cycles.
2 lb 12.8 oz per 100 feet == 5 lb 9.6 oz per 200 feet. === 8 lb 6.4 oz per 300 feet.
41.71 grams per meter
I have had problems Toggling (FiddleStick/SmoothOperator) with the Slyther as the knot overtightens. Be careful with this, and maybe position the stick a bit further out. Definitely untie and retie the knot before going last. Anticipate having to pull harder than usual.
Willie Hunt: Slyther is as static as any rope I have ever used. It's much lower stretch than C-IV. It's closer to BlueWater Canyon Pro/DS/Extreme or Tom's Polyester ropes, but lower like Atwood Grand: http://ropewiki.com/Rope_comparison Basically it feels like a steel cable in the stretch department, but like a dynamic climbing rope in the supple department. I love it!
Finishing the ends of Slyther rope and similar Technora/dyneema combos
Message: Tom and Shirlz - I have an Imlay Slyther that started experiencing sheath slippage after a half dozen canyons. I trimmed of the sheath to bring the sheath and core back to the same length. I tried a heat seal on the core, but unfortunately, neither the sheath nor the core are good candidates for the heat. What would you suggest to reseal the rope end? - Scott
Hi Scott -
The goal is to get a good weld between the end of the core and the end of the sheath. Here is my method, using superglue as the main tool, and you will want an exam glove and a ceramic knife.
1. First we fuse the sheath to itself. We fuse a section of sheath an inch long and an inch back from the end of the rope. Position the end(s) of the rope horizontal and not touching the workbench. Put a one inch line of superglue on the top of the sheath and using gloved fingers, smooth it / twist it around the circumference of the rope. The goal is to use as little glue as possible, while glueing a segment one inch long all the way around. Let dry 2 hours until not sticky.
2. For the next steps handle the end carefully. When you bend it / manipulate it the sheath will move in relation to the core, which is undesirable.
3. Cut the end in the middle of the 1" section, leaving 1/2" of fused sheath as the end of the rope. I use a ceramic knife as the best tool - many other cutting devices like a brand new utility knife blade just make a mess of it. I cut it onto a piece of plastic cutting board.
4. Finish the end. Position the end of the rope so it points straight up. The end of the core should be even with the end of the sheath, or slightly ‘inny’. You might need to milk the sheath to get the correct alignment.
5. Put a drop of glue on the end of the rope, and massage it around a bit so the drop covers the entire end and the rim of the sheath, welding them together. Let dry for 2 hours. If any glue spills over the edge, smooth that out or rub it along the rope so it does not make a bump.
That's it. Might take a few tries to get a good seal.
Tom