Toggle/FiddleStick (new) Backup Method

Eric in Sedona showed me a new (to me) way of backing up a FiddleStick (aka Toggle) that I think might become (my) standard practice and certainly could be useful in specific challenging situations.

HERE IS A FIDDLESTICK, STANDARD SETUP, WITH A LONGISH TAIL

USING THE TAIL, TIE A BARREL KNOT AROUND THE RAPPEL STRAND.

IF THE TOGGLE EXITS THE STONE KNOT…

… THEN THE BARREL KNOT BECOMES A SLIPKNOT, AND SLIDES UP TO THE ANCHOR (PROBABLY).

I have a canyon in my future where the FiddleStick will be positioned over the edge; I will want the anchor secured / safetied-off until I am in rappelling position below the Fiddle. With this method, I can hook into the rappel line, then downclimb and get settled in position below the Fiddle, then untie the barrel knot and complete the rappel.

Advantages:

  1. Easily adds a backup in the very-unlikely case that the Stick gets knocked out of the knot (except when the last person is on rappel).

  2. Very useful when the rappel has a ‘Rodeo Start’.

DIS-advantages:

A. One more step, and the last person might forget to undo the knot.

B. If the backup is activated, the knot becomes a slip knot, meaning it will slide up, the ‘noose’ tightening, moving the rope around at the back of the anchor under some tension. Not all fiddle-able anchors will be secure when this motion occurs. A shock load takes place.

The amount and nature of the sliding up depends a lot on the geometry of and friction-around the anchor. On a smooth log as shown, it would likely slide up a lot. On other Fiddle-able features, maybe not.

BE SMART! Use this where it is helpful. Maybe on a regular basis, maybe not.

Tom Jones