We made an early night of it, despite a late departure from Cutthroat. A 3:30 am start found us back at Rainy Pass for The Northeast Ridge of Black Peak, first ascent by Roger Jackson and Michael Kennedy 9/1/73. With 4970 feet of gain and loss, it would be a somewhat more challenging day.

But first, we had to get to the peak… the Northeast Ridge being the right skyline of the pyramidal peak.

We cut through Heather Pass and crossed a couple snowfields and talus slopes, then on up to a couple of lakes, the highest still frozen in.

Resting at a highish point.

We had to climb a wee bit of steep-ish snow to get to the ridge. Not really that steep, but when it’s your first snow in, say, 12 years, it feels kind of tenuous.

Bucky chilling out most of the way up, trying to get his legs to un-cramp.

Bucky and Tom crossing steep snow to get to a rock ledge.

Ram and Ram-son ascend the final steep snowslope to the ridge crest.

Bucky, not liking it. The ridgecrest of Black Peak above us. Looks kinda messy… Bucky couldn’t get his muscles to work, so bailed while it was practical.

Ram belaying on the ridgecrest.

Aaron executes one of the three or four fifth-class moves – usually right on the arete!

EXPOSED! The view down each side, from the belay.

Aaron leading up one of the fifth class spots.

Tom following the same spot.

Aaron belaying. Next part of the ridge was pretty third class, so we simulclimbed to the base of the final summit block.

Ram coming up to the 3rd class part of the ridge.

Ram on TOP OF THE WORLD!!

Aaron on the summit of Black Peak, looking down at our descent line. And then we went down.

Some nice flowers near the summit – looks like…

Polemonium elegans

Polemoniaceae (Phlox family)

Common name:

Elegant Jacob's ladder, Elegant Polemonium

Location:

North Cascades National Park, near summit of Black Peak, July 20, 2008; also near summit of Mount Stuart, Alpine Lakes Wilderness, July 25, 2008.

Elevation:

approx 9000 feet

NAD83 UTM:

- uh, gotta look that.

Dominance:

Uncommon in the areas stated.

Comments:

Source:

(1)

Washington Native Plant Society

; (2) Spellenberg, Richard. (1979, 1994)

National Audubon Society Field Guide to North American Wildflowers, Western Region

. Alfred A. Knopf, New York. ISBN 0-394-50431-3. Description page 672. (3)

University of Washington Herbarium.

Then… a long way down. Tedious steep crap, then some snow really helped. Then the climb to the pass, and down the trail – a long day.